The early morning sun strikes obliquely as the first hikers leave Fira and enter the path that runs along the edge of the caldera of Santorini. Below, hundreds of meters deep, the dark water of the Aegean Sea fills the ancient volcanic crater — one of the largest in the Mediterranean — formed after a catastrophic eruption that occurred around 1600 BC. From that crumbling and irregular edge, the walking path to Oia winds for about 10 kilometers, with a varying elevation that reaches the highest points around 300 meters above sea level.
The complete journey takes on average between 3 and 5 hours of walking, depending on the pace and the photographic stops — and you will make many stops. This is not an equipped alpine trail: the ground is often unpaved, at times paved with black lava stones, and at certain points the path dangerously approaches the edge of the cliff. It is a route that requires hiking shoes or sturdy-soled footwear, not beach sandals.
From Fira to Firostefani: the first urban stretch
The conventional starting point is the central square of Fira, the capital of the island, easily reachable by local KTEL buses that connect all the main villages. The first kilometers of the path pass through the villages of Firostefani and Imerovigli, practically an urban continuation of Fira along the edge of the caldera. Here, the white houses are piled one on top of the other, the alleys are narrow and often invaded by pink and red bougainvillea, and the terraces of the bars overlook the void of the caldera.
In this first segment, the path is well marked and relatively easy. It is also the most frequented stretch: tourists with trolleys, sleepy stray cats on the walls, souvenir shops open as early as the morning. Don’t expect solitude in this section, but the view of the caldera and the volcanic islands of Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni in the center of the basin is already visually striking.
The Wild Stretch: from Imerovigli to Skaros
After Imerovigli, the trail changes character. The asphalt is left behind and one enters a harsher landscape, where the vegetation is reduced to low bushes and wild capers growing among the volcanic rocks. Shortly after Imerovigli, one encounters Skaros Rock, a rock formation that juts out over the caldera like the bow of a ship. On this spur stood a Genoese fortress in medieval times, now reduced to a few ruins, but the detour to the tip is worth the time spent: the 270-degree view of the caldera and towards the profile of the volcano is among the most complete of the entire route.
This central stretch is the most physically demanding. The trail descends and ascends multiple times, with some passages on slippery rock if the ground is wet. It is also the segment where one walks closest to the edge: no fencing, no guardrail. Those who suffer from vertigo should be cautious, but those who do not will find this stretch the most exciting part of the entire walk.
The arrival in Oia and practical advice
The last kilometers towards Oia gradually lead to a more populated environment. The village first appears as a collection of white dots on the crest of the caldera, then slowly approaches to reveal its restored windmills, churches with cobalt blue domes, and the famous cave houses carved into the volcanic rock. Oia is also known for hosting the Venetian Castle, built in the 15th century and now in ruins, from whose square dozens of tourists gather every evening to watch the sunset.
The most important advice for those who want to take this walk is just one: start early in the morning, ideally by 7:00-8:00 in the summer. Temperatures in July and August regularly exceed 30°C, and the path offers very little shade for almost the entire route. Bring at least one and a half liters of water per person, high SPF sunscreen, and a hat. Those who do not feel like walking back can take one of the KTEL buses from Oia to Fira, or the local bus that connects the two centers with frequent runs during the day. The route can also be done in reverse, from Oia to Fira, but most hikers prefer to finish in Oia to enjoy the sunset after the walk.
What to bring and what to expect
In addition to water and appropriate shoes, it is useful to have something to eat: along the actual trail there are no refreshment points between Imerovigli and Oia. In Firostefani and Imerovigli there are bars and small taverns where you can take a break in the first part of the route. The trail does not require any entrance fee and is freely accessible.
Those visiting Santorini in spring — between April and early June — will find the best conditions: mild temperatures, reduced crowds compared to the high season, and, in some years, some patches of wildflowers still blooming among the volcanic rocks. In the height of summer, the route is still feasible, but it should be approached with respect for the heat and with minimal logistical organization that many tourists, attracted only by the photographic aspect of the journey, tend to underestimate.