For centuries, medieval European cartographers wrote next to the name of this volcano a single word: Hekla, gateway to Hell. It was not poetic fantasy, but the genuine reflection of the terror that this Icelandic mountain of fire inspired in those who watched it erupt from the sea, launching columns of ash visible hundreds of kilometers away. Today, with the right boots and a clear day, it is possible to climb along its slopes covered in solidified lava and look down on a landscape that seems to have come from another planet.
Hekla is located in the region of Rangárþing ytra, in the southern part of Iceland, about 170 kilometers from Reykjavík. With its 1,491 meters of altitude, it is not the highest peak on the island, but it is certainly one of the most respected: since 874 AD, the year of the Norse colonization of Iceland, it has erupted more than 20 times, with documented eruptions in 1104, 1947, and, more recently, in 2000. This frequency makes it one of the most active volcanoes in Europe, and the Icelandic authorities constantly monitor it with seismic instruments.
A landscape that tells millennia of fire
Approaching Hekla means crossing expanses of black lava that stretch for kilometers in every direction, interrupted only by tufts of bright green moss that slowly colonize the volcanic rock. These lava fields, called hraun in Icelandic, show different textures depending on the era of the eruption: the oldest lava appears worn and covered with lichens, while that from 2000 still retains its jagged and sharp surface, almost intact. Walking on these grounds requires attention and sturdy shoes.
The summit ridge of Hekla is actually an eruptive fissure about 5.5 kilometers long, oriented in a northeast-southwest direction, a characteristic that distinguishes it from classic conical-shaped volcanoes. On clear days, from the summit, one can see the glacier Mýrdalsjökull to the east and, under exceptional conditions, even the Vatnajökull glacier, the largest in Europe by area. The contrast between the black of the lava and the white of the ice is one of the most powerful visual spectacles that Iceland has to offer.
How to Climb Hekla: The Hiking Route
The most common trail starts from the Hekla Refuge, a facility managed by the Icelandic Alpine Club Ferðafélag Íslands, accessible via the F225 road, a dirt track that requires a four-wheel drive vehicle. From this point, the ascent to the summit takes an average of 4-6 hours round trip, depending on the pace and weather conditions. The elevation gain is significant but not technical: no specialized climbing equipment is needed, but it is essential to be equipped with layered clothing, waterproof gear, and sufficient water supplies.
One detail that many hikers do not expect is the speed with which the weather changes at altitude: even starting with a clear sky at the valley, clouds and wind can arrive in just a few minutes on the ridge. The best time to attempt the ascent is between July and September, when the chances of finding the trail free of snow are higher. It is highly recommended to check the local weather forecasts on the Icelandic Meteorological Office website (vedur.is) and any seismic alerts on the website of the Meteorological and Volcanological Office (en.vedur.is) before setting out.
The history and the myth: why Hekla frightened medieval Europe
In 1104, Hekla produced one of its most devastating eruptions, completely destroying the farm of Þjórsárdalur and burying an entire agricultural district under ash. This catastrophe remained etched in collective memory and contributed to the construction of the myth. Irish monks and European chroniclers of the 12th and 13th centuries described the volcano as the prison of damned souls, a place from which screams could be heard and where crows gathered before descending into Hell.
This reputation did not prevent the Icelanders from continuing to live in its vicinity. Even today, the farms in the surrounding region cultivate fertile pastures thanks to the minerals deposited by past eruptions, a silent testimony to the paradox that characterizes volcanic places: the same force that destroys, in the long run, fertilizes.
Practical tips for visiting Hekla
Those arriving from Reykjavík can reach the base of the volcano by taking Route 26 eastward, then turning onto the F225. The drive takes about two and a half hours. There are no entrance tickets to climb the volcano, but parking near the hut may have a modest cost. It is advisable to inform someone of your itinerary before departing, a standard practice in Iceland for any excursion in remote areas.
Avoid approaching the volcano if the Icelandic authorities have issued seismic alerts: Hekla is known to give very little warning before an eruption, sometimes less than 30 minutes. This should not discourage the visit, but it requires respect and constant information. Bringing a physical map, in addition to GPS, is always a good idea in an area where mobile signal coverage can be absent for long stretches.